by makeup artist and TIA contributor, Kristen Arnett
The funny thing is that yellow and white-ish concealers are exactly what most beauty consultants will sell you. Plus they’ll apply them in one big semi-circle underneath your whole eye in an attempt to diffuse the darkness, but that’s oh, so wrong!
Under eye darkness usually has a tone of blue or purple for those with more Caucasian coloring and those with dark skin have a deep grey/brown cast, which causes them to look tired.
Elementary art class teaches us that yellow and blue mixed together make green. So why anyone would suggest yellow concealer is beyond me. It makes eyes look sallow and diseased.
To that same point, if one mixes white into any color it becomes a lighter version of the base color. By doing that with makeup under your eyes you’ll have a lighter version of blue, purple or grey. Again, not the effect that we are going for.
What you want to do is find a concealer which is no more than one shade lighter than the rest of your face AND which has a peach, salmon, melon, or pink undertone to counteract the blue. For dark skin, as described before, you’ll need to choose something in the same tone of your skin but with a bright orange hue.
A staple in my makeup kit concealers is the natural and mineral based Jane Iredale Circle Delete Concealers. For fair to medium skin use Jane Iredale Circle Delete Concealer #2 (use the peach side for color correction and beware of using too much of the light because it can get too white very quickly). For darker skin try the Gold/Brown shade (use mainly the gold side for color correction and mix in the lighter shade as needed).
Here is the second most important part, placement.
99 times out of 100 concealer is not needed on the outer third of the eye. Putting concealer there will only draw attention to crow’s feet and creepiness. Where concealer should be concentrated is wherever you see darkness. Think of it as a comma shape that begins next to the nose and the inner corner of the eye and extends to where you can feel your ocular bone.
If you still need help understanding where exactly your discoloration is, try this scary exercise: Look in the mirror, tilt your chin down and turn your face slightly to the side. Now you can’t miss it! I warned you it would be scary, so please don’t obsess over it. Just concentrate putting your concealer there with patting motions, using either a finger or brush rather than wiping. When you feel you are done give one last boost with a dab of concealer in each inner corner of your eye. Then pick your head back up and walk confidently away from the mirror.
Looking forward to hearing how this works for you!
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